martha's vienna

Stockholm Trees 3

2012-02-14T02:30:00.000+01:00

Stockholm Trees 2

2012-02-13T02:00:00.000+01:00

Stockholm Trees 1

2012-02-12T09:03:00.000+01:00

Garden Frost

2012-02-11T02:00:00.000+01:00

Morning frost in the garden of Stockholm's City Hall, where the Nobel Prize dinner and ball is held.

Boats Along the Riddarfjärden

2012-02-10T13:34:00.001+01:00

Hoarfrost on the trees and boats at rest along the north side of Stockholm's Riddarfjärden waterway.

Frosty Trees from the Center of a Taxi

2012-02-07T20:10:00.000+01:00

This is not a great photo but I was squeezed between two other people in the back seat of a taxi between Stockholm's airport and downtown. The trees were so irresistibly beautiful I couldn't stand not being able to photograph them so I finally clicked off this photo. Glad I did, too, because the hoarfrost was melted by the time we reached the center of Stockholm.

Swedish Sunrise

2012-02-06T10:59:00.000+01:00

It has been said that home is where the heart is yet parts of my heart reside in many places. So I'll settle for another definition: home is where your pots and pans are. My pots and pans are in Vienna but, as you may have guessed by now, they've been cold lately as I have spent little time there in the past several months. Martha's Vienna and Sometimes Other Places has mainly been other places lately but I do plan to be back in Vienna sometime soon.

We recently flew into Stockholm and witnessed a beautiful pastel sunrise over frosty Swedish forests and farmlands. It never ceases to amaze me how simply witnessing the beauty of nature can transform my thoughts, my heart, me.

Classy Recycling

2012-02-05T19:19:00.000+01:00

It's Ball Season in Vienna and one of the most popular celebrities at the balls is Prof. Thomas Shäfer-Elmayer, whose family has been teaching dance and etiquette since 1919. He invites ball-goers to dance with the announcement, "Alles Walzer!" (All waltz!). Evidently he is also asking all to sort and recycle their discards. Vienna is such a civilized city; even recycling is done with grand class.

Lovely Drive through the Mountains

2012-02-03T15:54:00.000+01:00

One of my favorite drives is the road between Inzell and Thumsee, Bavaria, Germany, not far from Salzburg, Austria. It's beautiful in every season and winter is especially interesting with frozen waterfalls lining the mountain side of the road.

Hairy Cake in Istanbul

2012-01-28T00:19:00.000+01:00

Fascinating frosting formations flow from this fabulous confection.

Colorful Istanbul Part 4

2012-01-26T20:48:00.001+01:00

More of the bright sights of Istanbul....

Colorful Istanbul Part 3

2012-01-25T07:30:00.000+01:00

Street scenes in old Istanbul:

Colorful Istanbul Part 2

2012-01-24T07:30:00.000+01:00

Colorful Istanbul Part 1

2012-01-23T13:00:00.000+01:00

Istanbul: What a colorfully stimulating city!

Delicious, addictive apple tea seemed to always be served in glass.

Pipe Art

2012-01-22T14:43:00.000+01:00

I rarely see pipes anymore but Istanbul's Grand Bazaar had a beautiful selection of hand-carved Meerschaums. Works of art even non-smokers can appreciate!

"I Won't Cheat You As Much..."

2012-01-21T14:35:00.000+01:00

One of the most anticipated stops on our recent trip to Istanbul was the city's ancient Grand Bazaar. Salesmen stood at the entrances to their shops beckoning shoppers and lookers in with, "Welcome. Come in. Where are you from? Come in, come in....Don't worry, I won't cheat you as much as the others."

Smart City Crown

2012-01-20T17:53:00.000+01:00

A friend sent me this link to an article at Fast Company's Co.EXIST about Vienna topping the list of "smart cities." After seeing so many subjective lists of supposedly top places in the world, it is refreshing to read "The Top 10 Smart Cities on the Planet." The author, Boyd Cohen, explains the methodology and reasoning behind his conclusions and determined that Vienna is the best of the best. I think it's enriching to understand how and why people or cities do things differently than we do and learn from them. In these times of so many crises, surveying ideas for better living seems to be especially important today. Congratulations, Vienna for once again rising to the top.

Vienna's Rathaus, it's city hall.

Whirling Dervishes

2012-01-20T14:06:00.001+01:00

Goreme, Turkey. Their faces expressed calm and peace while they twirled continuously in a meditative state for nearly an hour. It was a fascinating manifestation of both discipline and abandon and a privilege to witness. This Mevlevi Sema Ceremony has been named to the UNESCO List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Additional information about the symbolism of the dance is HERE.

How to Love a Towel

2012-01-17T20:22:00.000+01:00

I've long desired to have a wonderful Turkish towel in my life. Decades ago I heard that they offered a long-lasting, quality relationship and I've brought a few into my home over the years but, frankly, we never really bonded. While I loved them at first, after awhile they didn't seem any nicer or better than any other towel I had in my life. Sooner or later they all became non-absorbant and rough. It turns out that, despite all my good intentions and consistent, caring use of fabric softeners, I wasn't treating my towels right.

But now, thanks to the education provided to me by Jennifer and her staff at her shop, Jennifer's Hamam, ( located in the Arasta Bazaar next to the Blue Mosque) I'm a bit wiser and can look forward to the embrace of soft, cuddly, absorbent towels in a delightful long-term relationship.

A Canadian, Jennifer is deeply committed to preserving the dying Turkish tradition of hand-woven towels. The weavers she buys from use 100% organic cotton on ancient-style looms. Thus, no two towels are exactly alike. Jennifer says that there are two simple secrets to having and holding wonderful cotton towels:

First, before washing or using, soak cotton towels in water for 24 hours and line dry. This allows the cotton fibers to open and become more absorbent. Then wash and dry either on a line or in a dryer.

Second, never use fabric softener on cotton as it coats the fibers and, over time, they loose their ability to absorb water. So no softeners in the rinse, no dryer sheets, no detergent with fabric softeners. With proper care Jennifer says her towels will last 20+ years if you use a dryer and 30+ years if you dry them on a line. How satisfying it would be to have an item that is lovely, comfortable, useful and cherished for so long! A great investment and a good feeling that you're helping preserve an artistic tradition.

According to information I've found on the Internet, it may be possible to soak old towels in vinegar to remove built-up fabric softener. It would certainly be worth a try in order to salvage or improve old towels, shirts or anything else made of cotton.

These pestamels look like throws or tablecloths but, in fact, are thin, lightweight towels used in hamams, Turkey's famous baths. Wrapped around the bather and the person who scrubs you down (and then floats lovely bubbles over you) they get soaking wet yet are light enough to stay put around each and all concerned.

Stylish and unusual as well as multi-purpose, I couldn't resist these lovelies. I'm thinking that drying off with a thin, light towel might have advantages over a thick, heavy towel, especially in the summer. Jennifer says they also make great scarves and picnic blankets.

I also bought this hand-woven pestamel for my mother thinking it would be perfect for her after her water aerobics classes. Note the Evil Eye protectors.

Jennifer has a very informative website with videos of her weavers in action and an explanation of her admirable philosophy at www.jennifershamam.com. She does not have an online store but says customers can email her for photos of her stock. Her weavers can also make custom designs.

Stroll along the Marmara

2012-01-13T13:03:00.000+01:00

I've never seen as many ships in my life as those waiting to enter the Bosphorus from the Marmara Sea. In an attempt to capture a feel for this myriad of ships from a speeding taxi (between vehicles from the opposing lanes of traffic) I would have been surprised if any one of my photos was free of cars and non-blurry. I was delighted, instead, to find this quiet image of a silhouetted couple strolling along the tree-lined promenade. Pure luck.

Now This is a Cistern!

2012-01-11T22:39:00.000+01:00

With water dripping from the ceiling on a rainy day, Istanbul's subterranean 6th Century Basilica Cistern is one of the most unusual places I've ever seen. Big carp swim in water that is used today for irrigation rather than drinking. It's elegant columns and pool was featured in the James Bond film, From Russia with Love in 1963.

Passing Beneath Our Window

2012-01-09T19:27:00.000+01:00

Still in Istanbul. We didn't spend much time in our hotel but it seemed every time we looked out the window someone interesting was walking by.

Chickens in Turkey

2012-01-08T15:36:00.000+01:00

Istanbul. Colorful chickens near our Istanbul hotel evidently spend their days sailing and communing with nature in a potted forest.

Butterfly Balloons of Cappadocia

2012-01-07T06:00:00.000+01:00

In a final installment of hot air balloon photos it's only right to show the billowing balloon that floated us up, up and away and a couple of her sister butterflies. Thanks again to Mustafa and his very capable crew (www.butterflyballoons.com) for giving us a safe, comfortable flight and to the Montgolfier brothers for their fine invention.

Does this image remind you a bit of the Turkish Evil Eye symbol?

The Land Way Beneath My Feet

2012-01-06T07:17:00.000+01:00

Several people have said they now want to take a hot air balloon flight over Cappadocia so I thought I'd share more photos of the unusual landscape below. How lucky birds are!

The Evil Eye and The New Year

2012-01-04T14:08:00.000+01:00

Bright blue circular disks seemed to be everywhere in the Turkish places we visited. The Evil Eye's purpose is not to cast evil but to protect from the negative thoughts, particularly jealousy, of others. I bought a few to serve as a reminder to be more aware of my own thoughts and improve my ability to dissolve negative thoughts—appropriate for the start of a new year, I think. Here's hoping the predictions the world will end this year are wrong and, instead, the theory that humanity will be more thoughtful, caring, kinder and loving toward all life and the planet will become the reality.

Up, Up and Away

2011-12-29T19:17:00.000+01:00

Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey. It's not always easy to identify why we develop a desire to do something but I'm pretty sure that whatever dreams I had to fly in a hot air balloon became entrenched when I first heard the Fifth Dimension sing, "Up, up and away in my beautiful balloon." That desire came crashing down, though, when I saw the Smokey the Bear balloon caught on a radio tower at the 2004 Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta. The pilot and his two young passengers had to climb out of their basket onto the tower and down the 700-foot structure while news helicopters hovered around them, creating strong winds and significantly adding danger to the situation.

But yesterday I overcame my fear and joined about 500 other people in the chilly sky over one of the world's most unusual landscapes.

Our pilot, Mustafa, of Butterfly Balloons, said Cappadocia is well-known for its good flying days, more than 300 per year.

Many of the balloons took a dip into the canyons, this one Rose Canyon, named for the color of the tufa, or volcanic ash that accumulated and eroded during the last ten million years. Earthquakes combined with erosion over the millennia formed these magnificent canyons.

These conical structures, also tufa, were soft enough to be carved out for use as housing, food storage, animal shelter and churches. Today, many have been converted into cave hotels and the Open Air Museum in Goreme, Turkey is a UNESCO World Heritage Site

I was a bit relieved that our balloon was not so close to all these others in White Canyon. Instead, our pilot, Mustafa, thought we should ascend above the clouds to see the sunrise. And so we rose...
higher and higher and
it got colder and colder...

...until we broke through the clouds and saw not only the sun but a distant mountain peak.

UPDATE: Mustafa has written me that the mountain is "Mt. Erciyes (Argeaus), 3917 mt. It is the major volcano that filled Cappadocia with ash for millions of years and with the help of water and wind erosion, we have this unique landscape."

Descending again, we saw the shadow of our balloon on a nearby cloud and a rainbow encircling our basket. Thank you, Mustafa, for an unforgettable experience and a soft, uneventful landing!

Sights of the Season

2011-12-24T06:00:00.000+01:00

Edelweiss seeds for sale.

The view of Kartnerstrasse and the Maltese Church from one of Swarovski's upper windows.

White trees with pink bows stand outside the very pink and white Aida Cafe at Stephansplatz.

A fiaker awaits passengers.

The Freyung's Old Vienna Christmas Market.

The City Hall (Rathaus) in silhouette.

Christmas lights begin to twinkle as the sun starts to set.

Walking past Aida again, now in the evening.

And from the front....

Stephansplatz with the modern Haas Haus.

Stephansplatz.

A fiaker heads down Rotenturmstrasse toward Schwedenplatz and the Danube Canal.

Elegant arched windows on one of the side streets near Stephansplatz.

Kohlmarkt.

The Graben.

Kartnerstrasse aglitter.

Italian Style in Vienna

2011-12-23T15:30:00.000+01:00

Opened in 1860, the always-beautiful, Italian-inspired Palais Ferstel passage is a most pleasant place to take a stroll.

Moo-ry Christmas

2011-12-22T21:58:00.001+01:00

Seen on one of the huts between Palais Ferstel and the Freyung Christmas Market....

On the Graben

2011-12-21T17:41:00.002+01:00

Christmas trees and chandeliers surround the main monument on Vienna's primary walking street, Graben.

Singing Praises of Singing Bowls

2011-12-20T10:34:00.002+01:00

I've held a secret for nearly two years. The main reason for the secrecy is that it is so amazing—and weird—I thought my credibility would suffer if I spoke of it. But reputation aside, I think this information could possibly help somebody who is suffering.

Although I love living in Vienna I've had a problem with recurring, intense headaches. Before moving here I had about one headache per year; after moving here it was one about every two or three weeks and they were excruciating. I thought it was from not drinking enough water or drinking too much water or eating Chinese food that may contain MSG or sleeping too long or not long enough or the short days in winter or the long days in summer. Then I learned that Vienna is somewhat known for headaches, possibly due to its location in a geographical basin and the barometric pressure here. I still don't know the cause of the headaches but I was taking more pain relievers in a month than I previously took in a year and was beginning to have concerns about the consequences of taking so many pills.

Markets are held every Easter and Christmas throughout Vienna but there's a hut at Am Hof in which the owner, Rashid, displays and sells all kinds of lovely Asian items. I started talking with Rashid, who demonstrated his singing bowls—hand-pounded metal bowls that produce wonderful, harmonious tones when struck. He mentioned that they were being used in Europe for therapeutic practices and were useful in strengthening fingernails, reducing joint pain and in the treatment of headaches. Headaches? Did you say headaches? OK! SOLD! That was the magic word. Still, I was skeptical that it would really work but desperate enough to try almost anything. At worst, I'd be the owner of an unusual bowl that made nice sounds.

He explained that to use it you remove your rings, place the bowl on the palm of your hand, strike the side with a felt mallet and slowly move the bowl in the air around the headache. He said there could be relief within 15 minutes. For me, it works much faster than that—perhaps three minutes, maximum. A friend say she finds the pain leaving immediately. Weird, huh? Amazing—yes! Placebo effect? Possibly, but who cares? Thank you, Rashid for making my life better by introducing me to the possibilities of singing bowls! If you are in Vienna and interested in a demonstration of his beautiful singing bowls, talk to Rashid at the Asiatische Kunst hut at the Am Hof Christmas Market or Easter Market.

Rain on the Ring

2011-12-19T05:00:00.000+01:00

The rain. The Ringstrasser. The reflections. From the Parliament.

Tree on the Front Porch

2011-12-18T14:52:00.000+01:00

Off to the side, tucked between the rows of columns of Austria's Parliament front porch is one very large tree....

Karlsplatz Dreaming

2011-12-17T10:00:00.000+01:00

Karlskirche looms dramatically in the background behind the dreamcatchers for sale at the Karlsplatz Christmas Market.

Gorgeous Glass at Karlsplatz

2011-12-16T17:36:00.000+01:00

The artisans displaying their wares at the Karlsplatz Christmas Market are among the most interesting in Vienna. I've become enamored of the delicate, free-flowing, lusciously-hued glass items hand blown by Eva Klingraber. Layers of colors, sometimes speckled, sometimes metallic, sometimes opalescent, all in relaxed forms absolutely make me drool. They feel rustic, primitive and thoroughly contemporary all at the same time. Eva's website is www.lichtelfenglas.at if you are interested in getting more information. As always, I have no financial benefit in my recommendations.

For photos of the Karlsplatz Christmas Market in the snow last year, please click HERE.

Der Mann

2011-12-14T22:52:00.001+01:00

Vienna has more bakeries than any other city I can ever recall seeing. This Der Mann at the edge of the Naschmarkt is charming in its holiday garlands, lights and bows. Some of the Naschmarkt stalls are remodeling in a modern style but the old structures like this have real character.

Lahn and Hallstatt in the Snow

2011-12-12T22:30:00.000+01:00

I'm in the mood for snow and Vienna has had only one light dusting so far this season. I could show you photos from this year of snow on my parsley plant but decided instead to go into the files and bring out these scenes from Lahn and Hallstatt, Austria, taken a few years ago. Lahn and Hallstatt are beautiful villages. For more photos from that Winter Wonderland Walk in Lahn, click HERE.

Schloss Grafenegg

2011-12-11T20:37:00.001+01:00

The romantic Schloss Grafenegg, about 60 kilometers outside of Vienna, holds an annual Christmas market with craftspersons from all over Austria demonstrating their skills and selling their wares. It's great fun. The restaurant's gulash and sauerkraut with juniper berries alone are worth the trip. There's a previous post on the castle HERE.

Beautiful leaded glass windows.

These ceramic stoves are not only beautiful but a great idea for efficient heat. Would love to have one at home.

Fancy chandeliers throughout the schloss.

Groovy gargoyles.

Full, Fuzzy Moon Over Stephansdom

2011-12-10T00:19:00.001+01:00

Oberammergau Ornaments

2011-12-08T22:12:00.001+01:00

This shop in Oberammergau, Germany is doing a brisk business with a new interpretation of old cow bells and coordinated hearts. The designs are reminiscent of elaborately decorated gingerbread cookies. Click HERE to compare for yourself.

Inside the Parliament

2011-12-07T18:27:00.001+01:00

The distinctive Greek revival building on Vienna's Ringstrasse houses Austria's Parliament. Built in the late 1800s when Emperor Franz Josef had the city walls torn down and replaced with one of Europe's grandest boulevards, the building provided the first parliament for many of the citizens of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

The columns are from Tyrolean marble.

The Federal Assembly meets in this room. In the early days, representatives from throughout the vast Austro-Hungarian Empire met here. Speaking half a dozen different languages. communication was difficult at best. As shouting matches would ensue the sliding desktops were banged to drown out the voices of the opposition...

...resulting in what this political cartoon dubs a desk lid concert.

A stained and etched glass skylight graces the ceiling.

Lots of detail....

Cool chandeliers...

Snazzy snake doorhandles...

And a hallway vending machine that appears to offer beer....

Hofburg's New Paint

2011-12-06T17:19:00.001+01:00

Vienna's Hofburg Palace nearly glows with its new coat of bright white paint.

Feeling a Bit Royal

2011-12-05T19:03:00.001+01:00

Viewing the fabulous collections in Vienna's Kunsthistorisches Museum is a great way to spend a cold wintery day. What's your pleasure? Egyptian? Greek? Roman? Rembrandt? Caravaggio? Or my favorite, the Bruegels? As marvelous as these treasures are, I'm always distracted and enchanted by the floors, ceilings and walls of the museum.

Naschmarkt Advent Wreaths

2011-12-03T19:31:00.001+01:00

With their four candles, advent wreaths are showing up all over Vienna. These colorful ones are for sale at the Naschmarkt.

Signs of Christmas

2011-12-01T21:06:00.001+01:00

Vienna is undergoing its annual transformation for Christmas. The elegant Palais Ferstel in the first district, with its painted ceilings, stone columns and wrought iron sconces hardly needs decoration but this not-too-fancy tree does add an air of festivity. If you are in the mood to see more Christmas images, use the Google tool bar on the right to search my previous posts for Christmas in Vienna.

Vienna Crowned Again

2011-11-30T19:37:00.001+01:00

For the third year in a row, Vienna has been crowned by Mercer consulting firm as having the highest quality of living in the world. Some of my favorite aspects of the city are its extensive public transit system, the relative safety, the many public activities available all year long—many of them free, the widely used honor system for payments, waiters that allow you to have leisurely meals or coffees, the many parks and public gardens, great architecture, and a compactness that promotes walking and biking. Well done, Vienna!

Through a Rainy Bus Window

2011-11-26T17:15:00.000+01:00

If you fly into the Ayer's Rock, Australia airport, chances are you will stay at the one nearby hotel and camping complex. For travel around the area, it is possible to rent a car—or a camel—but it's quite likely you'll sign up for one or more organized tours.

We found ourselves looking out of bus windows through the unusual rain during several tours. Some of our guides had worked in the area for decades said they had only seen rain once or maybe twice a year. So if you are lucky enough to be in a bus in the rain in the Australian Outback you take photos, right? All of the following were taken through bus windows.

As we approached Kata Tjuta, an outcroping of rock similar to Uluru, the sky lightened temporarily, turning the rain on the rock into silvery rivers and waterfalls. Not a common sight.

As we arrived closer to Kata Tjuta, the waterfalls became more distinct.

Kata Tjuta from a distance.

It was into one of these polka-dot puddles that my straw hat fell. It took an hour of scrubbing to remove the orange stain. Had I known it would take so long to clean I would have immersed the hat completely and kept the new color.

These may border on what some would consider odd images but I like the shapes and colors; they were taken at one of the hotels in the complex as we waited for more passengers.

As the sky lightens and we wait for the rain to slow a bit more, the view through the bus window is softened and smeared.

Back on the bus, ready to head home to the hotels, we get a brief view of the sand road illuminated by another bus.

Purple Trees

2011-11-26T10:12:00.001+01:00

Sydney's prolific Jacaranda trees with their purple flowers attract attention and lift the spirit. These were on trendy Oxford Street. During our month in Australia we completely missed out on Austria's autumn colors...but experienced a lovely second spring. So visually, 2011 was the year I had two springs and no autumn.

A Short Walk into the Outback

2011-11-25T07:00:00.001+01:00

More than snorkeling the Great Barrier Reef, more than walking through rain forests, more than driving the Great Ocean Road, more than seeing exotic plants and animals and the great sights of Sydney, walking in the Australian Outback thrilled me to the core. Memories of it still make my heart go pitty-pat. What should have been a three-minute walk took me an hour and even then I felt rushed. We were incredibly fortunate to visit the Australian Outback in the rain and see the desert exude life in this short, temporary condition. It seemed the desert was in a state of euphoria—contagious euphoria. The trip nearly half-way around the world was worth it for that one hour walking through the Outback.

By the way, there's a new feature here I think you'll like; if you click on an image you should get a window with the series of photos enlarged. It works on old posts, too. Please try it.

Outback Sunrise

2011-11-22T14:56:00.001+01:00

We arose early to see the sunrise on Uluru, formerly known as Ayers Rock, in the Australian Outback. It had rained in the desert during the night and I found the illuminated red-soil path to a viewing area an appealing match to the sunrise.

Treetop Walk at Otway Fly

2011-11-20T04:50:00.001+01:00

The privately-owned Otway Fly Treetop Walk is located in a rainforest near Australia's Otway National Park. Previously logged for timber, the area has been allowed to regrow. Only 50 years old now, one can only imagine how enormous the trees in the ancient forest must have been. Otway Fly offers an opportunity to go zip-lining between the treetops, walk on an elevated walkway or follow ground paths through the rainforest. It was chilly and raining the day we went—perfect conditions as the snakes would be snoozing and the rainforest would be rainforest-ing.

The blurry parts of these photos are due to raindrops and no matter how often I wiped the lens dry, by the time I took the photo rain would be back on the lens.

Mountain Ash, the tallest of all flowering plants, perfumed the air with their eucalyptus scent and shed their red bark in long ribbons.

The walkways and tower at Otway Fly provide great views of the rainforest.

I walked while David zipped through the treetops but I couldn't have been happier. My slow, quiet time alone in the forest was absolutely heavenly.

The equally enchanting woodland floor is lined with large ferns in many areas.

Watch out for the dinosaurs in a special area kids will love.

Attacked by a Blood-Thirsty Leech

2011-11-11T21:37:00.001+01:00

OK, OK...I know this darling koala doesn't look like a blood-thirsty leech but this cutie, or rather my excitement at seeing this cutie, is the reason I was attacked. After driving through many eucalyptus forests and not seeing even one koala, finally, on the road to Cape Otway, we saw quite a few people out of their cars, in the grass, snapping photos of a koala resting low in a bush. Now I have heard about the myriad of plants and animals in Australia that can kill you or cause you major discomfort and I was wary of stepping in the grass. Figuring that, since none of the other tourists were screaming with pain, they had already scared away whatever snakes or spiders might be in the area and since my hiking boots, thick socks and khaki trousers offered more protection than their shorts and flip-flops, it was OK to take my turn on the path they had forged in the shin-high grass to get a koala photo.

Hours later, as we were scoping out a place where glow worms live, my husband asked me how I got mud on my pants. My left trouser leg, sock and hiking boot were covered not in mud but in blood. My blood!! I had felt nothing. No pain. No sensation of wet or warm or cold. But there was a rather sizeable glob of coagulated blood...and no leech present. Confirmed by locals, including medical staff, that it was, indeed a leech bite, the site continued to bleed for several hours. All in all, a worrisome, interesting but ultimately harmless experience. Still, it seems the guidebooks and travel websites should warn about these creatures. So here is my warning to you: there are leeches in Australia!!

Being attacked by a leech is definitely messy but less painful and perhaps less dangerous than getting bitten by common blood-sucking ticks or mosquitoes. Our hotel manager gave me a bowl of salt water to wash the wound and both she and others warned that it might itch like crazy days later. She said that a poultice of soap and sugar would draw out the poisons. My bite never did itch but I'm still carrying a sliver of soap and a packet of sugar in my pocket.

I took a photo, of course, but have decided not to publish it out of consideration to the squeamish among us. Instead, here is the cute koala. Enjoy.

Lake Eyre from the Air

2011-11-07T05:25:00.000+01:00

G'day from the Land Down Under! We are visiting Australia...not to be confused with Austria...this is the country with an extra syllable and kangaroos. We flew over the most amazing lake, the largely dry Lake Eyre, between Sydney and Uluru (Ayres Rock). The mauve color of this lake bed and the patterns and colors resulting from different salt deposits and algae make it a thrilling sight. At 15 meters below sea level, Lake Eyre is Australia's lowest point. The sixth largest lake in the world, Lake Eyre was thought to fill once in a typical lifetime yet it has filled up several times in the past decade.

The lined edge and the mauve color of the desert Lake Eyre caught my eye first...

...but I found the white salt waves on the lake's edge equally fascinating and beautiful.

We were not flying the retired Space Shuttle but the photo appears to show both the curvature of the Earth as well as the "thin blue line" of our atmosphere above Lake Eyre. I'm guessing it must be an optical illusion but perhaps it is possible it is due to being relatively close to the South Pole. Any scientists out there who can solve the mystery?

Heart and Circulatory System of Vienna

2011-10-25T07:00:00.000+02:00

With its reasonable prices, convenience, frequent train schedule, great signage and spacious seats (compared to some other cities) Vienna has to have one of the best subway systems in the world. What's more, and what I think is also important in encouraging honesty and good citizenship, it operates largely on the honor system. There are no barriers to entering the stations but undercover U-Bahn employees do check tickets from time to time and the fine for not paying (I hear) is substantial. Just learn to read the signage and moving about the city is a breeze. This is the U-Bahn entrance at Stephansplatz with the Graben walking street in the background—the heart of the city.

Danube Twilight

2011-10-24T07:01:00.000+02:00

It's not often that I've seen Strauss's beautiful blue Danube look blue. But it did on this day until sunset when street lights brought out hints of lilac and gold. This view is looking toward the Donauinsel, the long Danube island that splits the river in Vienna.

The Reichsbrücke was the only bridge in Vienna not to sustain significant damage during WWII but early Sunday morning, August 1, 1976, the bridge collapsed, killing one person. I've never seen a reason for the collapse; it is said to be a mystery. In addition to cars and trucks, today's bridge carries pedestrians, bikes and U-Bahn trains.

Love Lives Here

2011-10-23T07:30:00.000+02:00

There is evidently no evidence that Romeo and Juliet existed beyond the hearts and minds of millions. Yet, if you are in Verona you can visit Juliet's "home."

Hearts on the wall leading to the apartment. Graffiti is a huge problem here.

The courtyard was packed with visitors when we arrived. That's Juliet's balcony, thought to be a recycled sarcophagus.

What beautiful windows...and I appreciate this man showing up with just the right clothes and beard to add a Shakespearean flair!

Tourists rub the bronze breast of Juliet, participating in the modern myth that it will bring true love.

Others place locks with their names on them and throw away the keys as a symbol of their hope for everlasting love.

Inside Juliet's home.

Costumes from the 1968 Franco Zeffirelli movie, Romeo and Juliet

The Renzo Mongiardino-designed Renaissance style bed used in the movie.

You can use a Renaissance-style computer to send a message to Giulietta.

View of Verona rooftops.

Sleek wooden "books" with quotes from Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet dot the rooms.

"There is no world without Verona walls...."

Kisses in the guestbook.

Pretty Trattoria

2011-10-22T07:30:00.000+02:00

It wasn't mealtime when we passed this pretty restaurant, Trattoria Tre Marchetti, in the old part of Verona, Italy but I like the pastel murals so much I hope to get a chance to eat there on a return visit.

The Man who Occupied Ponte Scaligero

2011-10-21T07:30:00.000+02:00

Peaceful sights greet the visitor to Verona, Italy who arrives via the bridge, Ponte Scaligero. Yet even a cursory history of the area reveals a story worthy of investigation.

It is said the Cangrande II della Scalla ordered the construction of this bridge in the mid-1300s to provide an escape passage from Verona to Tyrol to protect himself not from external forces but from popular riots. Nicknamed "Rabid Dog," he had ruled Verona harshly, amassing vast riches for himself and his sons while impoverishing the city's citizens. Hmmm.

Destroyed during WW II and rebuilt by 1951 from pieces salvaged in the river, this is one of the most unusual bridges I've ever seen. Long thought to have been killed by his brother, Cangrande II's body was exhumed in 2004 and an autopsy revealed he died from massive digitalis poisoning.

If you're ever in Verona

2011-10-20T07:30:00.000+02:00

I don't often focus on hotels but I'd suggest you write this name down: Casa Villa d'Arco. Just outside of Verona, Italy, this is a very special place with extraordinary hosts and marvelous breakfasts.

Upon arrival, owners Roberto and Vittoria invited us for a cool drink in their garden. We lingered till sunset questioning Roberto about his recommendations on what to see and do in the area.

The room I stayed in featured lovely antiques, a great oak floor, beams in the ceiling and beautiful linens.

The romantic view from my room.

Vittoria is a fabulous pastry chef who presents her delectable treats under lace.

Now this is a great start to living a beautiful life.

Colorful Evening

2011-10-19T07:30:00.000+02:00

A phone booth and hair salon glow brightly in Vienna's third district near the Landstrasser U-Bahn station.

Drying dill

2011-10-18T15:45:00.000+02:00

The ambrosial fragrance or taste of dill transports my grandmother directly to me with childhood memories of her asking me to go to the garden and cut dill for a salad we were making. My mother, too, has always loved dill and these drying stalks in her kitchen begged to be photographed.

Bled's Beauties

2011-10-16T07:18:00.001+02:00

Surrounded by mountains, one of our favorite places, Bled, Slovenia is symbolized by its picturesque steeple-topped island in the lake, a majestic castle on a cliff, stylish pletna boats, perfect cream cakes, slinky swans, and rustic horse-drawn wagons. It's a place to walk, row, sail, think and just enjoy an incredible intersection of the beauty of Nature and human interpretations of beauty...all the better with a bite of sumptuous cream cake in your mouth.

A Beer for You

2011-10-15T07:04:00.000+02:00

I've been to so many airports in my life and time (thanks, Leon Russell!) but had never before seen a welcome like this at the Vienna International Airport. Cartons of Egger beer rode the luggage belt with "Welcome Home" greetings. They got lots of comments from fellow passengers and a few people took a presumed-to-be-offered beer. Clever marketing campaign!

Shingle Shapes in the Morning

2011-10-14T08:30:00.000+02:00

A virtual jambalaya of rooftops as seen from an attic room window one recent morning at Penzion Berc in Bled, Slovenia.

Inside the window, little shingles of light cast by the net curtain on the ruffled one add pattern and texture.

A Welcome Mistake

2011-10-13T07:00:00.000+02:00

In that amazingly beautiful area of the world where Austria, Slovenia and Italy meet, if you set your navigation system to take you from Bled to Kranjska Gora to Bovec, Slovenia, with the intent of going through the Vrsic Pass, and you don't check the route laid out for you before starting your drive, you just might instead find yourself in Italy, passing the tranquil and idyllic Lago di Predil—a pleasant and welcome mistake.

Closed Gates

2011-10-12T20:56:00.001+02:00

Vienna's Haas & Haas restaurant, just behind Stephansdom, is a delightful place to enjoy a cup of tea or my favorite dish there—a pear and walnut ravioli in Gorgonzola sauce. The weather has turned cooler in the past few days resulting in closed gates to their outdoor seating.

Fanciful Flowers by a Curly Fence

2011-10-07T08:04:00.003+02:00

Once upon a moment in time, there was a Canadian bicycle holding a Japanese furoshiki bag resting against the Austria Natural History Museum fence in Vienna....

Wiener Wiesn 2011

2011-10-04T16:58:00.000+02:00

This year, Vienna hosted its version of Oktoberfest, complete with rides, dirndls, lederhosen (including a blue jeans version), tents, beer, giant wursts and dancing on the tables.

Parliament Sweethearts

2011-09-26T09:00:00.000+02:00

A quiet moment in front of the Austrian Parliament on Vienna's Ringstrasse.

Classy street performer

2011-09-25T11:14:00.002+02:00

Only in Vienna....

Circles in the Sky

2011-09-24T18:04:00.001+02:00

It seems quite a few elevators in Vienna sport circles in their ceilings, resulting in quite a happy effect, especially with a mirrored wall.

Palace Art, Gardens, Food and an Amazing Guitarist

2011-09-20T18:24:00.000+02:00

It had been on our ToDo list for ages—visit the outstanding art collection at the Liechtenstein Museum in Vienna. Our overdue trek resulted in a most pleasant summer day enjoying gardens, art, food and music.

The back side of the Liechtenstein Museum, the summer palace named for the family that named itself after a castle south of Vienna in the early 1100s and, yes, the same family that gave its name to the tiny country on Austria's western border.

Statuary and ivy.

Sitting outdoors at the Rubens Restaurant on the palace grounds, we enjoyed a light lunch of tomato soup, cold cucumber and watercress soup, a salmon sandwich and lemonade...

...followed by a marvelous strawberry tiramisu.

I'm no authority on guitar music but I've been very lucky to have heard some pretty good guitarists over the years—including Carlos Montoya, Jimi Hendrix, Eric Clapton, Carlos Santana, Jesse 'Guitar' Taylor and Lloyd Maines. I can now proudly add to that list the supremely masterful Armin Egger. What a treat it was to hear and watch him play in the Liechtenstein Museum. Eric, you should have your people call his people....And for the rest of us, if we ever have the opportunity to hear him play we should definitely be there.

The Farmer as Artist

2011-09-17T07:07:00.000+02:00

Regardless of the time of year, a drive through the Austrian countryside is always a delight. I have never seen a place so perfectly groomed. It's very rare to find a piece of litter along the highways or a billboard or a broken-down vehicle in a field or a trash pile. Most of the fields seem to have not a weed nor a blade of grass out of place. Throughout the country, dense forests encircle rich green fields resulting in nothing less than a sense of joy to these travelers. I like the artistic patterns on this chartreuse field south of Vienna, between the villages of Olbersdorf and Bauvorhaben Grottendorf.

Deadly Beauty

2011-09-16T10:26:00.000+02:00

Abundant in the high meadow of Schloss Seebenstein were many delightful purple blooms—beautiful to look at but I think they are the deadly poisonous Autumn Crocuses.

Seeing Seebenstein's Schloss

2011-09-15T05:56:00.000+02:00

Just south of Vienna, off the A2 highway, Seebenstein castle beckons those who travel by. Built between 1180 and 1230, the castle was owned by a series of knights, lords, and in 1824 it became the property of the Princes of Liechtenstein. In 1942, they sold it to a Mrs. Nehammer who wanted a fitting place for her antique collection. It remains in private ownership but is open to the public for tours and special events.

Seebenstein Castle, with it's Renaissance-era decoration at the entrance is complete with the requisite moat, drawbridge, tower and turrets.

This sign designates the castle as cultural property and asks that it not be damaged in times of war.

Cracked walls, crumbling bricks and a vine growing behind a trellis-like window add to the romance of Seebenstein.

Antique architectural elements are on display as you enter the building...

But I especially like the practical simplicity of the handrail.

An interior courtyard.

The metal doors found all over Europe are enchantingly beautiful.

This ornate table, set with pewter, features the carved wooden head of a Turk, once upon a time a frequent invader of the region. The dishes on the wall were owned by Emperor Franz Josef's mistress.

A beautiful antique cradle waits by a window.

This very old chandelier is made of Delft blue cups and saucers.

I found the workmanship on this bench to be amazing.

Closer up, we see this cushion is leather, not wood.

A graceful column sings its ode to grapes.

What a sweet collection of children's chairs!

Magnificent carving on this chest and chairs.

I'm guessing these are angel faces asked to protect the person who sits in this charming chair.

A window in the chapel. This small chapel is still used for weddings.

Hearts on a crest.

I think this is some kind of clock and alarm. The guide did not speak English and I don't remember reading a description on the hand-out sheet. Note to self: sign up for German classes.

Keys to the armory door.

Beautiful workmanship on this suit of armor.

Vines through a window softly.

A well stands in the center courtyard.

Rovinj Sights

2011-09-11T08:40:00.000+02:00

We spent just a few hours in charming Rovinj, Croatia on our way home from Plitvice. It's definitely a place I want to return to...when I can swim in the clear, cool water of the Adriatic.

Along a Dusty Trail

2011-09-10T08:26:00.002+02:00

In contrast to the sights seen earlier, subtle shades prevailed along a dusty trail leading out of Plitvice National Park, Croatia:

Bright Interest

2011-09-10T08:16:00.000+02:00

More bright colors in Plitvice National Park, Croatia:

How sweet it is to see children taking photos! Thank you makers of digital cameras for making the results of all our experimentation immediately observable and relatively inexpensive.

The Colors of Plitvice

2011-09-07T08:49:00.000+02:00

On this summertime visit to Plitvice National Park in Croatia the waterfalls were not as full nor as numerous as in the spring but the colors of the water in the lakes and streams were amazing. The limestone beds, algae, reflections from the sky, rock cliffs and trees gave almost a full spectrum of colors.

This is my favorite shot of all; I love the soft colors of—and reflected in—the lake as well as the rustic, curving path.

The algae and the reflected sky brighten this shady spot.

I don't have a star filter on my camera but the reflections look celestial.

No enhancements of this water! It actually looks this color!

The cliffs even have a bluish cast to them.

There must be half a dozen shades of teal/aqua in this scene.

Fallen tree limbs are quickly coated with calcium in the water, turning them shades of white, yellow and gray (or is that taupe?).

The water looks white in this shallow area.

It seems the fronds of these water plants have taken on some of the colors of the water. Click image to enlarge.

There are several caves along the paths, which reminds me: there are bears in Plitvice. More about that below.

You can see in the reflection in this photo, some of the trees are starting to turn. I'd love to come back in autumn and winter to see the differences.

The reflections of the cliffs and trees bring more colors to the lake.

Another indication autumn is coming.

And, as I mentioned, there are bears in the park. So if you should find yourself walking alone from parking lot 1 to parking lot 2 after dark and after the buses stop running, you can have a rather stressful experience. A good suggestion, learned the hard way, is to park in parking lot 1 and take the bus to the top of the lakes, walk down to the bottom and you'll be close to parking lot 1. And try not to be there after the sun goes down because it is very, very, very dark. A park employee told us later you should clap your hands as you walk if you find yourself out there after dark.

Plitivice's Fish

2011-09-06T15:10:00.004+02:00

I'm trying out a new format, with larger photos, but it may take a bit more practice before all is the way I want it. We recently re-visited Plitvice National Park in Croatia, famous for its collapsing lakes and waterfalls. The colors of the clear waters were beyond description so here are some photos of the fish that populate the lakes and streams of beautiful Plitivice.

Wings of Change

2011-09-04T07:40:00.004+02:00

As the construction crew down the street started their jack-hammering and sand-blasting dust-making, the guests at Vienna's Fabio's Restaurant deserted their sidewalk tables and a waiter finished removing the last of the dishes.
With a slight change of position the waiter started to take on a fairy-like appearance with wings courtesy of a local bank.

Lovely Linderhof

2011-08-12T13:25:00.003+02:00

One of the most elegant and pleasant places to walk are the grounds and gardens of Linderhof Palace in Germany. Designed by Carl von Effner (1831-1884) for King Ludwig II, the Linderhof gardens enhance the beauty of the natural valley in a very comfortable size and scale. They are grand, for sure, but not overwhelmingly huge.

The king loved all things French and his palaces are inspired by many of Versailles' features.

I took this photo because of the interesting fabric shades on the outside of these windows. I like the looks of them but wonder how well they hold up to the weather and how well they provide shade on a sunny day.

This was King Ludwig II's artificial grotto, inspired by the Blue Grotto on the Isle of Capri and decorated to resemble an illustration from a scene in Richard Wagner's "Tannhäuser." Look closely to the right to see a waterfall designed to start and stop at the king's signal. In the foreground is the king's shell-shaped, cupid-topped, flower-festooned boat.

Further into the forest surrounding Linderhof, Ludwig II had a primitive log house built and decorated according to the stage directions of Wagner's opera, Walküre. The king reportedly slept during the day and spent many nights drinking out of horned vessels here, next to a huge tree in the center of the room.

Just outside the log hut is this lovely space:

Walking back toward the entrance of the grounds you can pass this magnificent tree!

Linderhof Couple

2011-08-01T12:44:00.002+02:00

Not far from Oberammergau, Germany is one of King Ludwig II's three magnificent palaces, and said to be his favorite—Linderhof. It's his version of a scaled-down Versailles, framed for a moment by this delightful couple with their traditional outfits, his loferl socks—or Stutzen, as they are called in Bavaria (thanks, Markus), and their unusual umbrellas.

City Barn

2011-07-29T12:50:00.002+02:00

Oberammergau, Germany is known for its Passion Play and its elaborately painted facades. But along one of the side streets in town stands this old—and quite poetic—barn.

Roses of Wasserburg

2011-07-18T11:56:00.001+02:00

Another aaaah moment in Wasserburg, Germany, on the shores of Lake Constance:

Zeppelin Ride

2011-07-16T12:15:00.003+02:00

I've always thought it would be great fun to fly in a hot air balloon or a blimp and while we were visiting Friedrichafen, Germany, the home of the zeppelin, we took a ride in a zeppelin and learned a few things. First, zeppelins are different from blimps because they have a rigid frame inside the balloon area. Second, the balloon cavity contains helium (not hydrogen like the Hindenburg) and, third, weight is extremely important. We were taught that, to board the zeppelin, we were to wait in a designated part of the field while a man held the hovering airship with a single rope. A small stairway enabled two passengers from the previous flight to leave the craft and two new passengers were allowed to enter. Two by two, passengers continued to depart and enter until all twelve of us were on and seated.

We were instructed to stay seated at take-off and landing but during the majority of the flight everyone was walking around enjoying views out of the different windows.

If you look closely at this photo (click on it to enlarge it) you'll see the center part of the window hinges open. Several passengers stuck their head out of the window.

The view out of the large window at the rear of the cabin:

What a thrill it was to experience the fabulous bird's-eye view of Lake Constance (Bodensee) and the sights around town, including Schloss Friedsrichafen:

The city's main cemetery:

Nets covered many acres of crops:

Solar panels on this farm's rooftops:

Zeppelin Slide

2011-07-04T12:22:00.002+02:00

Friedrichshafen, Germany, on the northeastern shore of Lake Constance (Bodensee), where Count Ferdinand von Zeppelin founded the Zeppelin Airship Company, is definitely Zeppelin City. With its zeppelin museum, zeppelins flying overhead, zeppelin souvenirs and zeppelin-shaped signage, reminders of Friedsrichshafen's connection to the development of the airship are everywhere. The zeppelin slide downtown is a favorite of children.

Kids in a Bug on the Lake

2011-07-03T11:37:00.000+02:00

A Volkswagen Beetle paddle boat on Lake Constance (Bodensee) on the western edge of Austria provided hours of fun for these kids:

Aqua String Theory

2011-07-03T04:29:00.002+02:00

Reflections of metal pilings on Lake Constance (Bodensee) near Wasserburg,Germany:

Cows in the Clouds

2011-06-16T21:50:00.002+02:00

This cow rests in peaceful repose in the hills above the ski resort of Lech, Austria.

More cows on the crest between the hills and the clouds:

Blue Pine Cones of Thumsee

2011-06-14T10:15:00.002+02:00

Like featherless heron hatchlings, these blue pine cones peek out of their chartreuse nest of needles. I wish I could tell you which species of pine this is but I haven't been able to find a convincing answer on the internet. I suspect they are not common in North America.

Looking into the Lake

2011-06-11T22:18:00.004+02:00

No matter how many times I walk around my favorite lake, Thumsee, (in Germany, just over the border from Salzburg) there's something new to see. On this last visit the colors of the reflections looked different from what I had noticed in every other visit. Click on the photos to see them larger.